Tools: Cutting torch, soapstone marker, hand grinder, electric welder, wire brush, spring compressor, socket set, lug wrench, jack and jack stands, drill and 3/8” drill bit. We suggest spring compressor KD tool number 3450 or 3088. If you buy only one spring compressor, then you will need to design some type of jig to retain the one compressed position while using spring compressor to remove second spring. Be very careful as these long springs are hard to control and are dangerous if not removed correctly with proper tool. Do not get your body where you could be hit by spring should error be made upon removal or installation.
STEP 1: After engine and motor mounts are removed, remove front wheels, springs and shocks.
STEP 2: Remove steering column attachment under dash and bolts that hold steering gear box to frame. Push gear box out of the way of shock tower.
STEP 3: Place the fiberglass templates over the shock tower and using the wire brush, clean around edge of template and using soapstone, trace the edge of the template. (See photo #1)
STEP 4: Just above the base of the shock towers you will see 8 to 10 spot welds that must be drilled out or cut out with a torch. (See photo # 1)
STEP 5: With torch remove area of shock tower outlined. See photo #2. Do not cut out the line as you will need a little material to grind down rough edge.
STEP 6: Photo #1 also shows 2 white lines where excess metal should be removed from motor mount base. Reweld edge after this cut. This step not required for 351 engine.
STEP 7: Photo #3 shows the 2 nuts that hold the A frame in place. Notice one nut has been shortened. Both must be shortened to 1 1/4” as one is shown. These nuts are hardened and are best cut with an abrasive cutting disk or bi-metal saw blade. Do not cut with torch as the torch will remove heat treating and soften the nuts.
STEP 8: Photo #4 shows a white line where the A frame platform must be cut. Check the A frame support gussets supplied in this kit as these pieces must be welded under platform later.
STEP 9: It is mandatory that a brace (see photo #5) now be designed to attach to the top of the shock towers to keep the original spread between towers. The welding process will shrink the shock towers if not braced apart. Do not remove spreader brace until welding is cold. Spread between shock towers at top inside, should be minimum 27 3/4 inches we suggest you spread shock towers 1/2 inch wider than stock to allow for extra shrinkage when brace is removed. 23 3/4 inches at the narrowest part of A frame support when completed.
STEP 10: Photo # 6 shows A frame gusset welded in place .
STEP 11: Photo #7 shows a cupped in area on (drivers side only) A frame platform for header tube clearance. This is important only on the big block applications 390-427-428 and should be done before final welding. This step is NOT required for the 460! This can be easily done by notching out a half moon notch (about 3/8 inch at the deepest part at the top) and then heating the gusset and hammering it back to fit the cup. Gussets should be welded in place before the cupping is done.
NOTE: We designed a crossmember that fits both C6 auto and 4 speed. See price sheet for crossmember and trans insulator plus other LIGTENING BOLT parts and accessories.
NOTE: Don’t be surprised to find you will need to do a small amount of relief grinding when engine, trans, and headers are installed. One example is the pointed top corner of the steering gear box must be ground back to allow for extra header clearance when using the 460 engine. Headers will not fit if Crites Restorations motor mounts and trans mounts are not used
NOTE: The only cast iron exhaust manifolds that will work on FE engines as a performance manifold are 428 CJ manifolds. I was not able to find a cast manifold that would work for the 429-460. Custom headers are suggested which Crites Restorations has available for FE and 429-460.